Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Direct from the Runway: M.A.C Senior Makeup Artist Victor Cembellin's Look for Academy of Art University Fall 2010 Fashion Week

"There’s six different designers showing. How do you do a look that takes you through the entire show?" So said M.A.C Senior Makeup Artist Victor Cembellin backstage at the Academy of Art University show during Fall 2010 Fashion Week. Since these were my thoughts exactly, I was happy when he went on to say, "My take on the beauty was a modernized take on antiqued 1930's glamour. But everything has an urban edge to it, so it doesn’t get too pretty pretty or too referential to the 30's." Find out more after the jump.



Victor accomplished almost the entire look using just pencils. "Start with pencils because they're creamy enough, but not so dewy that you're gonna get in trouble!" he told me. Victor used two pencils on the eyes. He began with Powersurge Eye Kohl, lining over the entire eyelid for a "burnished gold, antique sort of flavor." He recommended looking down in a compact mirror and carving in the crescent, then lining under the eye and connecting in a triangular shape. He amplified the look with Coffee Eye Pencil, lining the waterline to stretch the eye out.

And Victor's favorite part about the eyes? Studio Fix Mascara. "DUDE!" he almost screamed backstage. "As a guy, normally I just put mascara on and I'm like, 'Oh, they're black!' This one, I'm all 'Oh my God, something magic is happening with this brush and this formula!' It's the first one where I'm like, 'Holy cow!' I so notice the difference!"

Victor Cembellin explaining the look backstage

Victor sculpted the temples and back of the cheekbones to give them a more angular look. He also used just a drop of Comfort Oil, massaging it into the skin to prep for makeup.

To complete the look, Victor finished with a vampy dark lip. "The lip is the best part!" he said. He scrubbed Night Love Lip Pencil on his hand, then applied with a 239 Brush "like you're doing eyeshadow," he recommended for those trying this at home. "You'll be better at it." He buffed the color into the center, then applied two more layers to give it the appearance of a dark stain.

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